Two women leaving soft footprints through city streets, country roads, and green mountain paths. Two friends with backgrounds in Fine Art Restoration and Art History who share an appreciation for simple pleasures and a passion for introducing others to Florence and beyond.

Angelica Turi - Tuscan, Licensed Environmental Guide. Elizabeth Namack - American, Licensed Tour Guide for Florence and Province

Come share the journey with us! Reflections and Wanderings through Tuscany and Italy!


Monday, May 13, 2013

Gubbio and the Race of the Ceri


Palazzo del Consoli (photo:Elizabeth)
The Umbrian town of Gubbio is famous for a number of things. Exquisite black truffles are found in nearby fields which add a unique flavor to local dishes. The urban landscape is dotted with medieval architecture in pinkish limestone which glow in the morning sunlight. The town makes great ceramics. The most interesting thing, however, is a very particular foot race held once a year in May, to honor Saint Ubaldo.

Ubaldo, born in 1085, came from this little town, located at the foothills of the Appenine mountain chain in the Umbrian area of central Italy. Ubaldo became an orphan at a young age, took religious vows, and entered into the ecclesiastical world. He went on to become Priest and Prior of a local church. Not long after he was made Bishop of Gubbio. Much loved by the people, Bishop Ubaldo’s actions were fundamental in the rebuilding of the city after a serious fire and for stopping Federico Barbarossa’s ferocious attack in the 12th century. 

In Gubbio, notice the flags for Saint Ubaldo

When Bishop Ubaldo died on 16 May 1160 the towns-people were in agony. They began a continual pilgrimage to pay their respects to the Bishop. Legend says that for over a year there was a continual flow of people day and night, bringing lit candles (called ceri) to the Bishop. Ubaldo was already being venerated like a Saint, and in 1192 Pope Celestino II canonized him. 

In 1194 his body was put on a cart, led by oxen and they went on their own will to the top of Mount Ingino. In the place where the animals stopped, chosen by divine provenance, a church was built in his honor. The current sanctuary and Basilica dates to the 16th century, although there have been many changes throughout the centuries.  In the center of the main altar is Saint Ubaldo’s body, in a special shrine remodeled in the 19th century. In the beautiful stained glass windows throughout the Sanctuary we can see the life of the Saint.



Ceri in the church (photo: Internet)



Inside the church there are also three “ceri” made of wood. The ceri are each about four meters tall, consisting of two superimposed hollow octagonal prisms joined by a central mast that weigh about 200 chilos! These sacred and profane objects (and lets face it, they look a bit phallic) are brought down into the town on May 1st. Preparations begin for the big festivities on May 15, which is the vigil of Ubaldo's feast day. Processions abound throughout the town and eventually there is an incredible uphill foot race between the historic confraternities to carry these immense ceri back to the Basilica.  Groups of ten men carry the ceri on their shoulders with wooden stretchers. The carriers switch off every ten minutes or so because the ceri are so heavy!

 



The Ceri are moving into the vertical (photo: Internet)





The 3 saints depicted in ceramic (photo: Elizabeth)









The three ceri are topped with Saint Ubaldo in yellow,  Saint George in blue and Saint Anthony in black. The first ceri that gets through the doors of the sanctuary (which, by the way, is always Saint Ubaldo), wins. However Saint George and Saint Anthony have to try to ensure they are inside the Basilica before the doors are shut by the leaders.   

The race probably has ancient Roman origins, however the festivities around the Festa del Ceri begans after the death of Ubaldo, the protector of the city, on 16 May 1160.
Flag of Umbria (photo: Internet)




The Ceri are now incorporated into the symbol of the region of Umbria. Below is a you tube video to give you a better idea of this incredible race which is going to happen this week!

- Post by Elizabeth 
   

 




Monday, May 6, 2013

Within walking distance from Florence, Antinori's new cantina

The staircase 




Last Sunday Francesco and I visited, by chance and curiosity, Antinori's new winery. The estate is located in the Chianti Classico area, about a 30 minute drive from Florence, close to the town of Bargino and to Badia a Passignano- where the family already owns vineyards and operates a restaurant. On these Estates the Antinori family also produces the well known Peppoli and Tignanello wine.










At the beginning of 2013, after seven long years, the project designed by the architect Massimo Casamonti with Archea studio was finally inaugurated.
The ambitious architectural project had been in the spotlight because, in order to make it happen, a whole hill was dug out of the immaculate geographical area of Chianti Classico, and in a very democratic way the entire project was first presented to the nearyby local community of about five-hundred people.




the spiral staircase in the parking lot


 I was turned off a bit at the beginning as the entrance to the building looks a bit like a tunnel entrance on a highway. I have to say though, I changed my mind as soon as I reached the parking lot. The space has a large spiral staircase leading to the floors above. I was immediately conquered, with the light shining down from sky, which made an effect like the stage of an opera house.





 Antinori's Cantina entrance, the long window corridor

On the first-floor there is the cellar, a wine tasting room, a small library, offices and an auditorium (which holds 250 seats). There is a picture gallery of some of the prestigious Antinori family members and at one corner an immense wooden winepress dating back to 1700. On the second floor there is a restaurant and other areas for bottling and wine making. Every angle has an amazing panoramic view onto the countryside.




In the auditorium a large screen video in 20 minutes explains the immense architectural project from its conception, showing the various building stages. I found out that the scale of which I speak was carried out on-site piece by piece by craftsmen and then assembled here. The cost to realize the project was 67.000.000 Euro!

Next time you visit the Chianti are make sure to arrange a visit!

- Photos and post by Angelica

Monday, April 29, 2013

Tasting Tuscany with Chef Ray 22-29 September 2013


 
Our home for 4 nights Borgo Scopeto
I am very pleased and excited to be part of a special tour being planned for 22-29 September 2013 - Tasting Tuscany with Chef Ray!

If you are from Sarasota or have ever visited the area I am sure you have heard about (or tasted the incredible cuisine) of Euphemia Haye, a Longboat Key tradition. The culinary journey is hosted by Euphemia Hayes’ owners Chef Ray and D’Arcy Arpke. I have known them since I was a barefoot kid riding my bicycle through the backstreets of our little beach village and I can not tell you how honored I was to be contacted to share with them my new backyard!   


Siena


The itinerary has been created with the “foodie” in mind. We will visit an award winning chocolate factory, an organic saffron farm, a pecorino cheese farm, a Chianti Classico wine estate, a Brunello wine estate. There will be three cooking classes with Chef Ray together with local Chefs, extra-virgin olive oil tastings, gelato and much more! We will visit picturesque hilltop towns and learn about the art and the history of this incredible region. 
 
Banfi Castle


  


It will be a week exploring the different geographical areas of Tuscany- the west with charming Lucca, the south with medieval Siena and the central area with Renaissance Florence. It will be a week for all the senses- with charming accommodations, picture-perfect scenery,  artistic treasures and of course sumptuous food.  


You do not have to be from Sarasota to join the tour! If you have an interest, contact Lisa at Silvestri Travel and mention my name.

The tour is being offered for the price of $4,525.00, per person based on double occupancy. The detailed itinerary and contact information is below.

********
Tasting Tuscany with Chef Ray
A week  long culinary adventure: September 22-29, 2013
Itinerary
Day 1: Sunday, Sept 22 – Morning arrival and meet-up at Florence's Airport (Peretola) We'll enjoy a panoramic tour of this beautiful city narrated by our guide Elizabeth and then head north to the medieval walled city of Lucca. Showcasing a different Tuscan landscape, Lucca is renowned for its olive oil. Lunch will be enroute. Check in – Villa La Principessa. This aristocratic residence is set in an elegant private park, located at the foot of the Lucca hills. We'll have time to relax before our Welcome Dinner. Overnight Villa La Principessa ( L,D)

Day 2: Monday, Sept 23 – Breakfast at hotel. We’ll indulge our taste buds today with a tour of the award winning and magical Amedei Chocolate factory. Later, we’ll hunt for truffles, of course there will be a tasting. A light lunch will follow. There’ll be time to relax before our cooking lesson and dinner. Overnight Villa La Principessa. (B, L, D)

Day 3: Tuesday, Sept 24 – Breakfast at hotel and check out. This morning we'll visit an organic farm that cultivates the crocus flower for saffron and enjoy a farm-to-fork lunch. Our afternoon will include a winery visit and stops in San Gimignano and Monteriggioni. Late day, we'll check in to our hotel – Borgo Scopeto. A beautifully restored Tuscan estate, it sits amidst the gently rolling hills of Chianti, just outside Siena. It will be our home for the next four nights. In the evening we'll join Chef Ray in the hotel kitchen for a cooking lesson, followed by dinner. Overnight Borgo Scopeto. (B,L,D)

Day 4: Wednesday, Sept 25 – Breakfast at hotel. Today we will have a tour & tasting and lunch at the Banfi Winery Estate. The day's agenda will include a visit to a cheese farm to learn about the production and sample artisanal cheeses and a light dinner. Overnight Borgo Scopeto. (B,L,D)

Day 5: Thursday, Sept 26 – Breakfast at hotel and a late morning departure to Siena. We'll enjoy a guided walking tour of Siena including the Mangia Tower and its heart, the Piazza del Campo. Lunch will be on your own and the afternoon will include free time for shopping and personal sightseeing. Our cooking lesson this evening will be in the heart of Siena where Chef Ray will collaborate with the school's director in a special lesson dinner and then “home”. Overnight Borgo Scopeto. (B,D)

Day 6: Friday, Sept 27 – Breakfast at hotel. Today we will tour the villages of the Chianti region and lunch in Panzano with the famous butcher, Dario Cecchini. After lunch we'll visit a winery for an exceptional tasting of the region's wines. Overnight Borgo Scopeto. (B,L,D)

Day 7: Sat Sept 28 – Breakfast at hotel. Transfer to Florence, the birthplace of the Italian Renaissance and enjoy a special day tour with Elizabeth. We'll check into the Hotel Athenaeum, a stylish property in the heart of the city. You'll be on your own this afternoon to lunch and explore. This evening we'll gather for our Farewell Dinner. Overnight Hotel Athenaeum. (B,D)

Day 8: Sun Sept 29 – Breakfast at hotel. Transfer to Florence airportfor departure. (B) Arrivederci!


Tasting Tuscany with Chef Ray
Inclusions, • 7 nights, 4* hotel accommodations, • Transfers and ground transportation, • Services of an English-speaking guide, • Breakfast daily, • Lunches and dinners with the exception of two lunches noted, • 3 cooking lessons, • 3 winery visits and tastings, • Guided walking tours of Siena and Florence, • Chocolate factory tour & tasting and truffle hunt & tasting, • Culinary visits, tastings and sightseeing as indicated


Not included, Airfare, personal expenses (food and drinks not listed) and gratuities for the guide and driver
Price: $4,525.00 per person based on double occupancy
Enjoy a $150 discount when you pay by cash or check – $4,375.00
Single supplement $850.00
Your tour payment reflects a tax –deductible donation of $100 that will be made in your name to the Juvenile Diabetes Research Foundation

Booking Information: To reserve a spot, a $500 deposit is required (non refundable)
Contact Lisa, at Silvestri Travel
Call: 866-966-6535 or Email: Lican51@aol.com

International air and pre and post tour stays and travel insurance all available.
We strongly recommend the purchase of travel insurance.
Terms & Conditions, A non-refundable $500 deposit is required to reserve your space. Balance Due by July 7, 2013, July 8 - Aug 8 – 50% refund, Aug 9 - Departure – no refund. Penalties and fees imposed by our suppliers may be additional and, if imposed, will be deducted from the above refunds, if any.

We reserve the right to change itinerary components if needed.


-Post by Elizabeth 
 

Monday, April 22, 2013

Visit the Cinque Terre (5 Lands) in a Sustainable Way




Every two years since 1996, the World Monuments Watch calls international attention to cultural heritage around the globe. They put into evidence places that are at risk from the forces of nature and the impact of social, political, and economic change.  A small area of about 9 miles, along the Mediterranean coastline in Italy, between Genoa and Tuscany, was placed on the watch by the World Monument Fund in 2000 and 2002.




I am talking about the famous Cinque Terre (5 Lands). Due to abandoned vineyards in the 20th century and lack of maintenance, the stone buttressing that supports the terraces was collapsing, causing landslides. The sad fact is that today the land is still very fragile, and frequently is home to landslides and falling rocks even after strategic site management plans were taken into effect.

Torrential rains caused an incredible amount of damage to the area in 2011. Last September 2012, four Australians were hurt from fallen rocks walking on the most famous trail “the Via del Amore”. Many of the lower trails are currently closed in 2013, considered too unsafe for casual walking. The higher trails are open, but one needs to be physically fit and prepared for an uphill hike!   


This delicate land, so fragile and shaped by man, is an important and powerful example of how humans can shape and alter their own environment.  In 1999 the area became protected under a National Park system and Cinque Terre is listed in UNESCO for Cultural Patrimony. In 2001 the area just south of the Cinque Terre, around the town Portovenere, was also made into a protected park. The Mediterranean sea surrounding these territories is also safeguarded. 

 
Portovenere seen by sea
So, how can we visit the Cinque Terre and the surrounding areas, so beautiful and breathtaking, without damaging it with too many trodden feet?   

The World Monuments Fund has put together a list of ten simple guidelines which we should keep in mind when visiting places, both in Italy and elsewhere around the globe.





World Monuments Fund Sustainable Tourism Pledge
Unmanaged tourism can damage cultural sites. Visitors can make a difference. Travel responsibly with these ten simple guidelines.
  1. Know the History Before you travel, read up on the history and culture of your destination. Use the internet to get leads on local specialties and off-the-beaten-path sites from locals and other travelers. Learn a few basic phrases in your destination’s local language.
  2. Reduce Your (Carbon) Footprint Walking, biking, and trekking or exploring one place in-depth is a good way to reduce your carbon footprint. At urban destinations, walk or take public transit whenever possible. You’ll see more and avoid getting stuck in rush-hour traffic!
  3. Be Eco-Friendly Conservation should always be on a traveler’s mind: whatever helps the environment, such as recycling or staying in an eco-friendly hotel, also protects heritage.
  4. Respect the Local Culture Show respect for and interest in the local culture. At sacred sites, dress modestly, speak softly, and be mindful of people who are there to worship. Seek out local celebrations and festivals – they can provide a unique glimpse into local culture and are a fun way to meet locals, sample traditional foods, and learn about your destination’s heritage.
  5. Go Off the Beaten Path Visit lesser-known places—they may be far more rewarding (not to mention less crowded) than tourist hotspots. The Taj Mahal may be a must-see, but India has more than 25 other spectacular World Heritage Sites.
  6. Be Gentle in Your Travel Be mindful of visitor wear and tear. Visiting crowded sites at off-peak hours or popular destinations in the off-season will reduce your impact. Stick to marked paths. Wear comfortable footwear such as sneakers; heels can damage fragile sites. Don’t climb on monuments or touch rock carvings, as it can damage them.
  7. Don’t Be Flashy with Photos  Take only photographs, and make sure that a flash is permitted because a flash can damage centuries-old artwork. Be aware of local traditions when photographing people and when in doubt, ask permission before snapping a picture. Never remove anything from a site: you may think one stone won’t be missed, but if every one of Pompeii’s two million annual visitors took something home, soon there’d be nothing left.
  8. Buy Local Support the local economy by buying crafts from local artisans as souvenirs. Be wary of “antiquities” as these could be looted or forgeries. Patronize smaller hotels and local restaurants—that way the money you spend boosts the local economy and helps preserve heritage.
  9. Join the Cause Help threatened sites, either through donations to organizations like the World Monuments Fund or by volunteering—either in your community or on a “voluntourism” trip. There are many opportunities to combine travel and volunteerism, and ways to help range from building houses to participating in archeological digs.
  10. Educate Tell friends and family about responsible heritage tourism. Raise awareness by sharing your experiences on social media sites like Facebook and Flickr, or your own travel blog. Start a global conservation conversation!

When travelling, try not to make places “a travel check” on your bucket list. Take time to stay in the places you visit to be able to appreciate them more. If at all possible, try to avoid visiting places like the Cinque Terre, San Gimignano, Venice  and Florence in one day.


Angelica and I lead sustainable tours in the Italian Riviera which includes Cinque Terre and Portovenere hiking with CW Adventures

Here is the link for more information on the World Monument Fund.


- Post and photos by Elizabeth