Nativity Scenes

(photo: Elizabeth)

Part of the magic of Christmas in Italy is the Nativity. You will find Nativity scenes (Presepe) in every church. The city of Naples is famous for its wonderfully ornate nativity scenes and clay figurines.

Presepe Cuciniello, Napoli, Museo di San Martino

Families organize elaborate nativity scenes in their homes, complete with grottoes, wooden barn sheds, straw and small figurines. My nephew said he spent an entire afternoon with his girlfriend creating a cave scene in the middle of the living room (which included a volcano). It is a big deal!

There is also an extension to this theme, the “Living Nativity”. Small villages organize themselves and recreate Bethlehem with the life and times surrounding the birth of  Jesus Christ. Casole d’Elsa is one such small Tuscan town. They organize a living nativity every other year. It is organized in this way because of logistical challenges, since they have over 200 people participating! A large portion of the village becomes a live stage set. One hopes for no rain. 

Last year we drove 1 ½ hours to arrive to this town south of Florence. There were signs to park quite a distance away and a shuttle bus was even organized to take us to the main gate. It was late in the afternoon and more people present than we expected. There was an admission fee and quite a wait to enter, because of crowd control on the small streets. My husband wanted to leave (he tends to do that when there are crowds). I convinced him to stay since we had driven all this way! So we paid our ticket and eventually entered into a closed off section of town. 

Weaving  (Photo: Elizabeth)

Inside a home (photo: Elizabeth)

We stepped back into time. There were Roman soldiers and diplomats, artisans working in shops, families cooking by the fire, kids playing in the streets, and an assortment of animals, music, dancing and candlelight. 

At a certain point we were even offered some warm red spiced wine from a terracotta jug from a woman in a tavern. The grand finale ended with the adoration of Baby Jesus. Everyone was there - the Holy Family, angels, shepherds, attendants, lambs, chickens, goats, even cows. A truly magical atmosphere that recalls the true spirit of the holidays. 

Baking bread (photo: Elizabeth)

- Posted by Elizabeth