Two women leaving soft footprints through city streets, country roads, and green mountain paths. Two friends with backgrounds in Fine Art Restoration and Art History who share an appreciation for simple pleasures and a passion for introducing others to Florence and beyond.

Angelica Turi - Tuscan, Licensed Environmental Guide. Elizabeth Namack - American, Licensed Tour Guide for Florence and Province

Come share the journey with us! Reflections and Wanderings through Tuscany and Italy!


Monday, April 30, 2012

Live like a Nun: Conservatorio S. Maria degli Angeli


In Florence, off a busy side street near the church of the Santissima Annunziata there is a quiet slice of heaven. After ringing a door bell a big wooden door opens and we are welcomed inside the Convent of Santa Maria degli Angeli by a nun dressed in her typical black and white dress. 

So typical of buildings in Italy inside layers and layers of history exist. The building housed the Convent of S. Maria degli Angeli. Six Florentine women bought a house here in 1507 on this street. They dedicated their life to religion and helping the poor. As more and more women joined the group they took on the veil and became an official order of cloistered nuns underneath the Domenican rule. In the 18th century the space was transformed into a Conservatory and a ‘school for wealthy families’. After monastic changes in the first part of the 19th century the convent changed again, however the school remained. A portion of the building is still a school today. The nuns (now of a different order) also offer a religious pension to students and tourists.   

(photo: Conservatorio)
So typical of monastic complexes there is an inner cloister dotted with plants and bushes, which brings stillness, quiet, and calm from the busy bus-lined road outside. At some point in time the spaces between the columns were glassed in. 

From a small door we enter a small chapel which has been recently restored by private sponsors. The walls are decorated with 17th century frescoes. We walk by the nuns to go to a special rooms upstairs. They are saying the rosary together with a priest on television! 













Upstairs we sit in a room with wooden seats adorned by an elaborate altar and a statue by Giambologna of the patron Saint of Florence St John the Baptist. 

 












One can stay here- no television, simple rooms and an atmosphere of quiet reflection. In the dining room (the ancient refrectory) you can eat your dinner under a 17th century Last Supper depicted by Matteo Rosselli.  www.conservatorioagneli.it.
 
Angelica observing fresco
  
       












 
 

Posted by Elizabeth
(photos Elizabeth unless otherwise indicated) 



 

Sunday, April 22, 2012

Italian Movies


Most people consider Italian movies films like 'Ladri di biciclette' ( Bicycle Thieves)  or ''The garden of the Finzi Contini', 'La dolce vita'  or movies from the Taviani Brothers, Visconti, Antonioni and of course  Fellini.
These are movies that only few Italians actually end up watching.
While most Italians do not have any idea of who Visconti is, they will all know Toto', Sordi, Manfredi, Verdone, Gasmann, Pieraccioni, Aldo Giovanni e Giacomo,  etc...
  • Matrimonio all'Italiana (Loren, Mastroianni)
  • Divorzio all'Italiana (Mastroianni, Rocca)
  • Sedotta e Abbandonata
  • 8 e mezzo (directed by Federico Fellini)
  • La Dolce Vita (directed by Federico Fellini)
  • Lo Sceicco Bianco (directed by Federico Fellini)
  • Amarcord (directed by Federico Fellini)


  • Here are some of the best Italian Comedies:

    • La Grande Guerra ( Sordi / Gassman ) - About the first world war, as a comedy - For me one of the best movie ever made.
    • Il Ciclone ( Pieraccioni ) - One of the Best selling Italian movies of all time
    • Ricomincio da Tre (Troisi) - Another masterpiece - Heavy dialect willl make understanding difficult
    • Cosi' e' la Vita ( Aldo Giovanni e Giacomo )-  The Cabaret trio in a movie (With English Subtitles)
    • Febbre da Cavallo (A light comedy)
    • Amici Miei (An Italian classic)
    • Il medico della mutua (Alberto Sordi)
    • Il Professor Guido Tersilli ( Il medico della mutua) Alberto Sordi
    • La marcia su Roma
    • Il Federale (Tognazzi)
    • Pane Amore e Fantasia - A masterpiece in this field


    You can find the following Italian film titles in the US:

    • I Soliti Ignoti - big deal on Madonna street : A classic
    • Johnny Stecchino - Benigni
    • Il Mostro - Benigni slapstick but funny
    • La vita e' bella - Benigni comedy / drama
    • Mediterraneo - Diego Abbanantuomo
    • il Postino -(Massimo Troisi)
    • Pane e Tulipani / Bread and Tulips (2000)
    • Le Fate Ignoranti - not quite a comedy but quite good
    • Mad About Opera / Follie per l'Opera (1950)
    • Toto' Truffa '62
    • I tartassati
    •  La banda degli Onesti 
    • L' armata Brancaleone 
    • Brancaleone alle crociate ( V Gassman ) 
    • C'eravano Tanto Amati - Gassman, Manfredi, Stefani Sandrelli, available at Amazon
    • La Scuola (1995) - ( Silvio Orlando)
    • Non ci Resta che Piangere (1984) - Massimo Troisi, Roberto Benigni 
    • I Mostri (Gassman - Tognazzi ) 
    • Un Americano a Roma (Alberto Sordi) 
    • Il giorno Prima degli Esami + Il giorno Prima degli Esami oggi 
    • Tre Metri Sopra il Cielo 
    • Ieri Oggi e Domani (Mastroianni, Loren)
    • Le Notti Bianche (Maria Schell, Marcella Rovena) 
    • Siamo Uomini o Caporali? (Totò)
    • Totò d'Arabia (Totò)
    • Miseria e Nobiltà (Totò)
    • Finché c'è Guerra C'E' Speranza (Sordi)
    • Guardie e Ladri (Totò, Fabrizi)
    • I Soliti Ignoti (Gassman, Cardinale)
    • Totò, Peppino e... la malafemmina (Totò, De Filippo)
     
    Happy Cinema
     
    - Posted by Angelica


    Monday, April 16, 2012

    Recanati: A charming town in the Marches


    Recanati main square (photo: Elizabeth)
    My mom said to me, “If you want to promote the Marches you need to write about the Marches.” So true! We have decided, therefore, to dedicate more posts this year to this wonderful and lesser known region of Italy. My post this week is about a small town in this region, Recanati.   

    All Italians have heard about Recanati (population about 20,000), situated on a high ridge with views of the Adriatic sea on one side and views of the Appenine mountains on the other. Why? Giacomo Leopoldi! Well, you may ask as I sheepishly did, “Ok, just who was he, again?” My friends, Giacomo Leopardi, was an 19th century intellectual and one of Italy’s most  beloved writers and poets. Remember I am an Art History buff and not a literary buff, although I was moved and inspired after learning more about this esteemed Poet.

    In Leopardi’s family home, located in town, one can visit the family’s fabulous library containing more than 20,000 volumes and visit a recently redesigned museum which offers insight into the poet’s universe, his life, thoughts and vision. In the museum you will find Italians and school age kids (it is a must for highschool field trips), but not too many other visitors.

    Picturesque square Recanati (photo: Elizabeth)
    Leopardi's poetry (photo: Elizabeth)
    The fabulous natural setting of Recanati is made even more evocative by the echoes of Leopardi’s poems. When one walks through the streets of town the atmosphere of his poetry is evoked, despite the markings here and there of modernity. The feeling happens when walking in the terraced park near his home, as far as the “solitary hill” to gaze at the moon:

    “and you hung there suspended over that wood
    as you do now, to illuminate it all”

    or while observing the horizon from a house, hotel or restaurant window:

    “What boundless thoughts
    What fondling dreams were mine, as I could view,
    So far away, the sea and those blue hills
    I still can glimpse from here, and which I thought
    I was one day to cross…”.*
    The Appenine blue hills in the distance from a pizzeria in Recanati (photo: Elizabeth)
     One of the challenges of visiting these small towns are opening and closing hours of museums and churches,  but in Recanati I had good luck. Inside the Diocesan Museum next to the Cathedral of San Flaviano (located in the Bishop’s palace) I noticed an open door with a window grate. It was a private listening access space to the annexed Cathedral (which I had briefly seen for a few minutes, before I was shooed away because of daily mass). Infact the service was still taking place and I could listen in, from this secret access on a higher floor! With goose-bumps running up and down my arms I felt taken aback in time. I was someone in the Bishop’s Palace in the 17th century, who not wanting to attend mass publicly, was attending from my own private quarters!
    Secret observation access (photo: Elizabeth )
      







    Mass through the private access grate (photo: Elizabeth)

    After this stop, I was the only person in the Civic Museum, which proudly displays a recently restored Lorenzo Lotto (another goose-bump experience), but that will be subject of a future post. The region is promoting a whole itinerary on this 16th century master of the Venetian Renaissance.  

    Recanati Tower (photo: Elizabeth)

    I found Recanati to be charming, friendly, and a great place to make a base for local explorations. The town is located about a 15 minute drive inland from the Adriatic coast, so one can go to the beach or explore neighboring towns and sites during the day and return to a quiet hill top town in the evenings. Recanati is another one of the many places to savour Italy’s la dolce vita away from busy crowds.   






    Nearby Adriatic seaside at dusk (photo: Elizabeth)





    - Posted by Elizabeth














    *translations taken from Touring Club Italiano, Guide to Macerata and its province, ed 2003, pg. 71.

    Saturday, April 7, 2012

    Happy Easter



    It is tradition in Italy to receive a big large chocolate egg for Easter Sunday wrapped in decorated foil. It  often has a little surprise inside.

    We'll be back next week with a post on the Marches. Buona Pasqua everyone!



    - Elizabeth & Angelica

    Monday, April 2, 2012

    A Pilgrim's Footsteps- Sarzana to Camaiore

    A hearty breakfast at the nice Caffe del Teatro in Sarzana gave us enough energy to face the first part of our pilgrimage walk.  On the steps of the town’s Santa Maria Cathedral, Father Peter greeted us and invited us into the Church to receive the credential stamp in our books (a special pilgrim’s passport).

    After saying prayers he blessed us. On the way out we noticed incredible works of art along the aisles of the church: two marble altars dating back to the 15th century and a crucifix by Maestro Guglielmo dating to 1138. These works literally left me and my five companions (Mark, Angela, Monica, George, & Francis) enchanted and speechless.
    Sarzana, Maestro Guglielmo's Crucifix

    Sarzana, Riccomanni Marble altar, 1471

    Sarzana's Cathedral
    The journey began on an asphalt road between houses. We took a variation of the Francigena route, which goes down to the sea instead climbing up and along the steep hills. At the Archaeological Museum in Luni, an ancient Roman port (now inland 3 km from the sea) we rested and had a bagged lunch. Then the path continued along a beautiful green area up to our hostel for the night in Marina di Carrara. Total mileage- 25 km!

    Pietrasanta Cathedral
    The next day, we took a long coastal pathway to Marina di Pietrasanta. As we walked, it seemed like millions of joggers and cyclists passed us on the side walk! To tell you the truth I would have preferred to lay on the beach here rather than walk! In Pietrasanta we received a further stamp on our credentials before reaching our final destination Camaiore.

    These two cities are very beautiful and worthy of a longer stay. Unfortunately however, the physical fatigue and the public transportation schedule did not allow us to visit too many places in the towns, since we needed to return to Florence. Our consolation, however, at least for Camaiore, is that the next portion of our pilgrimage starts from here, so we will be back again soon!  This day’s mileage-  km 28.

    - Posted by Angelica